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1997 Paxton SN93 Rebuild
Published: 11/11/2004  
Author: Marco Prommenschenckel
When I bought the SC (supersharger) 2nd hand I knew there where surtain risks, you never know what the previous owner did with it. When I first mounted the kit I noticed a whine of the SC nowing it must be the begining of worn bearings I kept driving it

When I bought the SC (supersharger) 2nd hand I knew there where surtain risks, you never know what the previous owner did with it.
When I first mounted the kit I noticed a whine of the SC nowing it must be the begining of worn bearings I kept driving it until the whine went over in screeming.
That was the moment for a rebuild.
I surched the Internet for adresses and companies and info for a rebuilt kit and come up with one company that has the rights for all Paxton balldrive parts. Graig Conley is the one, http://www.paradisewheelsinc.com/
After some e-mail traffic back and forth I undersatand that he rebuilds these SC for a standard $ 700 or send me a rebuild kit $450 and a modefied impeller for +/- 1.5 pounds more boost $100 and a oilcooler kit $150.
Because I live in Holland (europe) sending my SC overseas back and forth would be high priced, I ordert the rebuilt kit,modefied impeller and the oilcoolerkit to do it myself.
When I unpacked the rebuild kit I noticed that a cople of parts are easly to get in the larger car/truck/farm equipmentpart stores.
Like the 2 ball bearings,o rings and oilseals, ecept for the inner shaft and the 5 large balls and 2 outer races.
Before you order a rebuilt kit you have to know :THERE ARE TWO DIFFERENT KINDS IN THAT OUTER RACES, DO YOU HAVE A SLOT IN THE OUTER EDGE OF THE RACE OR A SMALL HOLE, MODEL PINNED OR SLOTTED, THE SERIAL NUMBER SHOULD SAY 3700800 OR 8001928, I have 8001928 pinned.
My gues is that the SC started whining in the first time was the lack of a oilcooler and filter so I recomend you add one.
There are no instruktions suplied by the kit so you have to proceed with cousion becouse almost everyting is made of aluminum and would damage very quick.
The dustcap on the pulley comes of with a pry of a srewdriver, and after unbolting the bolt, the pulley comes of with a pulley puller.
Then the six front bolts that are behind the dustcaps with o rings. The dustcaps come of with two sharp razor blades.
The most difficult thing would be pressing out the large steel shaft out of the aluminum inner housing before you do you must take of the copper filterscreen and unscrew the screw that you see and take out the spring (suplied in the kit) behind it is a small rod that must come out at least a 1/2 inch becouse it presses to the shaft and would snap if you press out the shaft.
When the shaft is out you will see why.
I did not have a press kit so I used one OLD race that fits ferfectly on the inner housing and welded a peace of exhaust pipe on it to make it longer +/- 2 inch and a large vise.
The bearings and races com out easely by heating the aluminum carefully with a propane torch, the aluminum expand more then iron and they fall out by them selfs.
You better start the proces with the races becouse you can use the old ones for pressing out the ball bearings.
I used a tad of locktide on both, the pulley and on the impeller bolts.
Beware onf any nicks and scratshes in the aluminum.
These are the numbers I found on the boxes of some of the parts:
2 races (Pinned type) : NHBB New Hampshire Ball Bearings Inc. , Peterborough, NH03458
BRG # Y-3440RA , PT#8001928 A, Lube type FA Automatic Trans fluid
Lot#MK00130 USA
  • 1 Shaft (bag) :
    • Mil-DTL-117MT-11C-CS-2
    • Mil-PRF-22191-D-T-11C-2
    • EDCO Aug 02
  • Shaft (box) :
    • NHBB New Hampshire Ball Bearings Inc. , Peterborough, NH03458
    • BRG # MTY-365, Lube type FA, Auto trans. Fluid
    • Lot # MS89020, Usa
  • 1 Ball bearing :
    • Nachi 6205, Japan




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